Acrylics, gels, dip powder, and extensions... there are many different options when it comes to manicures — and each has its own distinct advantages and disadvantages. Gel nail polish and dip powder, two of the most popular manicure methods, both belong in the acrylic-based family but differ in a few important ways.

Whether you're holding your breath until you feel safe visiting your favorite salon or you're currently experimenting with DIY manicures (or both!), here are the key differences to know between gel and dip powder manicures.

1. Application process

The primary difference between gel and dip powder manicures? The way they're put onto the nail. "The easiest way to tell the difference between gel and dip powder is how they are applied," explains manicurist Chelsea King. "With gel, it applies like regular nail polish and you cure it in a UV or LED lamp after each coat." 

Gel manicure polishes contain photo-initiated polymers, explains fellow manicurist Ashlie Johnson, which are activated when exposed to light. Essentially, "these polymers absorb [light] rays," explains cosmetic chemist Ron Robinson. That causes them to "harden or cure so that the polish adheres to nails." Most often this is done with a UV light, as it works a bit quicker than LED — usually in under 45 seconds. Simply speaking, gel polish is cured onto the nail using light (without the UV or LED light, it will remain wet).

Dip manicures, on the other hand, "use colored powder acrylic mixed with a glue-type resin that cures in the air," Johnson explains. The application process is exactly what it sounds like. First, a base or primer coat is painted on, then each nail (while still wet) is dipped into a small pot of colored acrylic powder. Your manicurist (or you, at home) will work in layers. Once the desired level of coverage is reached (usually two to three rounds of dipping is required), an activator polish is brushed on as a top coat to cure the formula — no UV light required.

Bottom line: Gel polishes are painted on, similarly to regular nail polish, and require UV or LED light to harden. Dip powder involves dipping each finger into an acrylic colored powder, then painting on an activator polish as a top-coat that cures in the air.

2. Lasting power

When applied correctly, a good gel manicure can last, on average, for two to three weeks. For those who tend to have oilier nail beds or are just prone to nail chipping, though, gel polish may not last for even two weeks.

Dip powder manicures generally last longer than their gel counterparts. To give you a sense of just how strong the hardened dip powder formula is, Deborah Lippmann, manicurist and founder of the namesake nail-care and color line, explains that "dip powders are bonded using a glue called cyanoacrylate, which is also the main ingredient in Krazy Glue." To get more specific, cyanoacrylates are "a family of strong acting adhesives," explains Robinson. Dip powder can be thought of as a glue-based resin that hardens when exposed to air (just like, you guessed it, actual glue).

Simply put, dip powder polymers are stronger than those found in gel polish, and, therefore, dip manicures will generally last longer — up to five weeks, if properly cared for.

Bottom line: Gel manicures typically last between two to three weeks, while dip powder manicures can last for up to five (with proper prep, application, and maintenance).

3. Removal process

The acrylic-like, multi-layered (re: thick) nature of dip powder manicures can ensure that they last longer than gel, but it also means they are more difficult to remove.

"Overall, gel polish is much easier to remove than dip powder," King explains. "They both need to be soaked off, but dip powder will take longer." For both gel and dip powder, you'll want to pencil in at least 30 minutes — either at the nail salon or at home — to get the job done. 

The removal processes for both are similar in nature. First, the top layer of polish is gently sloughed off with a coarse nail file, then the nails are soaked in an acetone solution. For gels, this can be done via acetone-soaked cotton balls, but it's necessary to soak fingers directly in a bowl of acetone to remove dip powder; typically your nails will need to be submerged for between 10 and 20 minutes.

Bottom line: Because of its thick, multi-layered, and acrylic-like nature, dip powder takes longer to dissolve and remove than gel polish.

Read more