I have a seasonal itch. I don’t mean the tickle in my nose when the air fills with pollen. I’m talking about the little patch of eczema on my right hand that starts to prickle when the seasons change. Now, don’t get me wrong, it’s great to have your own personal groundhog-like abilities (I’ve even learned to embrace it over the years), but if you’ve also been a long-time sufferer of atopic or contact dermatitis, aka eczema, you know it isn’t fun. Sometimes the smallest of patches are the most uncomfortable to deal with. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve woken up by the tiny, two-inch area on my ring finger itching and throbbing in the middle of the night.

I have it on my face and the back of my neck, too. Every time I test out a new skin-care or makeup product, I pray it doesn’t irritate the eczema on my left cheek. Luckily, that area doesn’t flare up often, but when it does, my self-confidence tends to plummet. I can’t help but feel like I’m playing the skin version of Russian roulette when applying an unfamiliar formula for the first time. A tiny risk I have to take when it comes to being a beauty editor.

For those moments the eczema patch on my face chooses to make an appearance, I asked both board-certified dermatologists and makeup artists how to safely apply — and wear — makeup to eczema-prone skin.

First, calm the area.

“Apply a cool compress to help reduce inflammation,” says Mona Gohara, a board-certified dermatologist based in Connecticut. An oatmeal soak is another quick, at-home remedy if you’re in a pinch. “Mix some oatmeal in water and put a gauze in it,” she advises. Apply the soaked piece of gauze to the inflamed area.

Keep the makeup minimal.

“To be truthful, it is generally not advisable to put any makeup over actively inflamed skin, but if you do, it should be minimal,” Gohara tells Allure. “Steer clear of products with fragrance, glitter, or shine.”

Shari Marchbein, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City, also recommends looking for products with the phrases “hypoallergenic” and “fragrance-free” on their labels. “Hypoallergenic is a term used when pertaining to cosmetics that literally means the products and ingredients are unlikely to cause an allergic reaction,” she says. “Using hypoallergenic or fragrance-free products are important for those with sensitive or eczema-prone skin.”

Apply a barrier.

Having eczema means your skin barrier is comprised, which could lead to redness, flaking, and irritation. “Barrier creams, such as Vaseline, are a reliable way to keep moisture in and irritants out,” Gohara shares.

When prepping skin with eczema, Tommy Napoli, a New York City-based makeup artist, reaches for a primer, another barrier option, before applying makeup. “I prime with non-mattifying silicone primers to help cocoon skin and buffer between skin and makeup,” says Tommy.

He finds Nyx Professional Makeup High Glass Face Primer to be protective and nourishing on compromised skin in need of covering. “Most cosmetic silicones evaporate off the skin, but while they’re there, they can help to alleviate the stress of makeup and offer a more smooth surface where cracks and dryness are mitigated,” he shares.

Skip the powder products.

Cream-based products are the way to go for eczema-prone skin, advises both Tommy and New York City-based makeup artist Nam Vo. “Powders add texture upon texture,” says Vo.

Tommy finds that cream blush and bronzer can be gentler on the skin, though. “Liquid foundations or anything with a dry-down tends to dry out, cling, and exacerbate eczema’s texture,” he says. “Sticks and creams do not compromise the skin underneath them.”

For base makeup, he recommends Kevyn Aucoin Foundation Balm for its buildable coverage and softening formula, which lays smooth while covering. The formula has vitamin E for added skin support.

Gohara suggests looking into skin-friendly brands such as Dermablend and Colorescience for non-irritating base makeup. The Dermablend Flawless Creator foundation is an Allure favorite — it won a Best of Beauty Award in 2018. For on-the-go, Colorescience Loose Mineral Foundation Brush SPF 20 is great for touch-ups.

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