A Dermatologist-Approved Skincare Routine for Adult Acne

 



If you have acne-prone skin, skincare options, "solutions," and suggestions can feel endless and overwhelming—but caring for your skin doesn't have to be.


To help navigate the best products, tips, and routines for treating acne-prone skin, we spoke to two top dermatologists for their expert advice.

What Is Acne?

By definition, Johns Hopkins defines acne as a quite common skin condition that's a "disorder of the hair follicles and oil glands (sebaceous glands). The sebaceous glands secrete oils (sebum) to keep the skin moist. When the glands get clogged, it can lead to pimples and cysts."

According to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), it's the most common skin condition in the United States, affecting up to 50 million Americans annually, and approximately 85% of people between the ages of 12 to 24 experience at least minor acne.

Thankfully, there are options to care for and treat even the most stubborn, severe acne. The AAD says, "Thanks to advances in treatment, virtually all acne can clear with a dermatologist’s help."

Causes and Prevention of Acne

So, what exactly causes acne? More than one thing, explains Brendan Camp, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology. "Clogged pores, excessive oil production, bacteria that trigger an inflammatory response, hormonal changes, and even diet can contribute to acne formation," he says.

Because of this, he says that it is a "good idea" to develop an acne routine customized to your skin's needs. And "while there may be no one-size-fits-all regimen, building a foundational skincare routine that can be modified to suit a person’s needs is a good place to start," Camp says.

Arash Akhavan, MD, a board-certified dermatologist, FAAD, also points out that it's important to keep in mind that "not all acne treatment requires prescription products. A solid home skincare routine may be all you need to control milder acne." 

When it comes to caring for acne-prone skin, consistency and routine are key, as is ensuring you're using the right, quality products.

Below are the doctors' recommendations for your AM and PM skincare routine:


Morning Skincare Routine

Cleanse

Akhavan recommends that those with acne-prone skin cleanse their face twice a day. He also suggests that if you have oily skin, it's best to kick off your morning skincare routine with a creamy, oil-free cleanser with salicylic acid, such as Clearasil Rapid Rescue Wash, and "avoid using abrasive exfoliant sponges or brushes to minimize traumatic inflammation of the skin."


Tone (Optional)

"Using toner is an additional step that helps remove extra oil and impurities

from the skin as well as rebalance the pH of the skin, which is normally slightly acidic (the ingredients in some cleansers may nudge the skin pH towards basic)," explains Camp. Because some toners can be drying, if you have less oily skin, you may not need to use one. But if you do, he recommends, La Roche-Posay’s Effaclar Clarifying Solution Acne Toner, which contains both salicylic acid (which flushes out pores) and glycolic acid, to help remove dead skin cells that can clog pores and make the skin look dull.

Apply Sunscreen

Proper UPF protection is a key step to maintaining healthy skin. Akhavan recommends using a sunscreen "with anti-inflammatory niacinamide in it, such as Elta MD UV Clear." Apply this as a base to be protected from the sun's harmful UVA and UVB rays.


Treat/Medicate

The products used in this step may look different for everyone, but Camp says that the morning is a good time to begin targeting new or existing

blemishes. "Spot treatments are helpful for zeroing in on acne bumps with

products that contain active ingredients like salicylic acid, benzoyl

peroxide, and sulfur," he says. He recommends Neutrogena's Rapid Clear Salicylic Acid Acne Treatment with Witch Hazel, or La Roche-Posay’s Effaclar Duo Acne Spot Treatment, which contains 5.5% benzoyl peroxide, "which is effective for inflammatory acne like deep-seated stubborn lesions."


Moisturize

Moisturizing your skin is an important final step in your AM routine. But why? "Lipids, or fats, in the top layers of the skin help retain moisture

and function to create an impermeable barrier between your skin and the environment," says Camp. "Facial washes and toners remove natural oils, so

skipping this step will leave the skin dry, vulnerable to infection, and dull in appearance."

He recommends that when selecting a product, "look for the words 'non-comedogenic,' which means the product is less likely to clog pores and contribute to the formation of acne papules."

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