Although acne is commonly associated with oily skin, let it be known that dry skin can break out too. And while these breakouts on drier skin are certainly manageable, they can be a little harder to deal with because so many standard acne treatments are targeted specifically to oily skin types. “But sometimes acne can occur on certain parts of the face, while other parts are unusually dry (what we call combination skin or T-zone oily skin),” explains New York City–based, board-certified dermatologist Morgan Rabach, MD.

“I like to compare the skin with brick and mortar, where the skin cells are bricks and the mortar is what holds the cells together: ceramides, lipids, and cholesterol. Dryness occurs when there is not enough mortar to keep the bricks together,” explains New York City-based, board-certified dermatologist Dendy Engelman, MD. “Moisture keeps the skin pliable and supple, whereas the lack of it causes skin to crack, flake, and peel. Cracked skin is more vulnerable to infection from microorganisms—such as bacteria and fungus—because the skin barrier is not strong enough to protect itself, which can lead to increased breakouts,” she explains.

So treating acne with dry skin can require a delicate balance. But first, a bit more on the basics from leading board-certified dermatologists. 

Why Breakouts Happen

Acne—no matter what type of skin you have—results from a relatively simple formula. The skin produces too much sebum, which leads to oil clogging the pores. When the pores become filled up with oil and dead skin—a blackhead or whitehead forms and becomes infected with bacteria. 

As we get older, “our skin loses sebaceous output and moisture,” says Engelman. “Unfortunately, acne can start to increase as we age due to hormonal imbalance, stress, dietary, environmental factors, genetics. So, increased breakouts can start when skin is becoming drier—it’s a tough combo!” she says. 

These breakouts are treatable—it just takes a certain amount of knowledge to make sure you don’t worsen the skin’s dryness in an effort to banish zits! “It is a challenge to treat acne if you have dry skin, because acne treatments can actually dry you out more,” explains New York City-based, board-certified dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, MD. “So it is important to use appropriate cleansers and moisturizers to address dry skin and minimize the risk of medication-related irritation.” 

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